Seer of ghosts & weaver of stories

(You are very much not forgotten)

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Here's a photo of James and me in Père Lachaise:

(Photo taken by arcana_mundi, who graciously showed us around for two days.)

The weather was, as you can see, gorgeous. We'd returned from the cruise to discover that England's in full-blown winter, so leaving the country again for a more southerly clime only served to undercut how cold York has really gotten over the past few weeks. Some rain arrived on the day we left (yesterday), but it didn't interfere with our flight out of De Gaulle.

On Sunday, we went to the Musée National d'Art Moderne at the Centre Pompidou. Our objective was primarily to see the Chagall paintings that they've got in their collection, but I ended up staring in abject astonishment at Dalí's Guillaume Tell. The color detail is simply exquisite. Seriously, if you've only ever seen reproduction posters and scans of this painting? They do not do it justice. Come to think of it, most reproductions of Dalí's work don't do him justice, period. Only now that I've seen a small handful of originals do I understand that his true genius isn't in his wacky, surrealist imagination (at least in my opinion). His use of color is...whoosh. I'm in love. I would have posted my own photograph of the painting, but my camera's batteries are all dead again, and I can't upload until they've recharged.

I admit that we didn't do the entire Louvre on Monday. We went in at 9:00 AM and left around 2:00 PM; thereafter, we ran around Père Lachaise with arcana_mundi and then went to her place for dinner. Speaking of food, James and I found this restaurant in Montmartre that's absolutely fabulous - it's called something like La Dardoigne (I gave the business card away and thus do not recall exactly). Also, jainas took us to a place in the Quartier Latin called La Jacobine that was even better. Free-range chicken never tasted so good (the sauces were honey-mustard and coconut curry at the restaurants respectively). If it sounds like I eat and drink my way through vacations: it's true. I totally do. Experiencing a city, a country, a culture is down so much to those parts of it that you can truly consume.

Anyway, I'll post again when my camera is ready to cooperate.

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Experiencing a city, a country, a culture is down so much to those parts of it that you can truly consume.

Word. Given my druthers I'd travel around to all sorts of tiny restaurants and come back one chubby(er) squeeful.

I mean, seeing things is important, but tasting and smelling things? Even more important!

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There's something about late summer/early autumn sunlight that's like nothing else on earth.

You sound like you had such a beautiful time.

Salvador Dali is amazing. You're right, though, there's nothing that even comes close to an original.

Same with Chagall, really - although I'd say the difference between a reproduction of Chagall and an original vs. the difference between a reproduction of Dalí and an original is just...wow, day and night. Chagall's images translate better; Dalí's, on the other hand, have some quality to them that's entirely elusive unless you're staring at an original!

I loooooooved Pere Lachaise. Didn't have much time there, but it is amazing!

I know! I saw the coolest thing when I was there. There were tons of crows everywhere except this one small part of the cemetary. When I went around the corner to this one part, there was a single crow on a soldier's grave. Then I saw another crow approach, land and "talk" to the other one and the other one flew away. It was almost as if they were guarding it. It was awesome!

We saw a maintenance guy fixing a roof on one of the little mausoleums, and suddenly, his radio started blaring Stevie Wonder's "Superstitious." We about died laughing!

It looks and sounds like you're having an incredible time.

For a four-day trip, it was actually pretty chilled-out and not terribly rushed! After being shut up with the in-laws for two weeks on a ship, this was a pretty welcome change of pace. Today's all back-to-business, though. My students seem very keen, which is a relief. I had a small handful of delinquents last year :-P

Oh my gosh. Pere Lachaise is a Mecca I've wanted to go to for my whole life, for basically one reason, so I have to ask: Did you kiss Oscar Wilde's angel?

Hahaha, no! Number one, I don't wear lipstick all that often and didn't have it on that day. Number two, I admit that the squick factor is...significant. I don't want to kiss an object that's been kissed by that many other people!

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Hee, thanks - it's a Paul & Joe number that I got on super-super clearance at Sarah Coggles here in York, plus a plain 3/4-sleeve cream-colored tee and one of my crazy pairs of Noa Noa tights. Oh, and the black Doc Martens with the red panel up the back. Yeah, my dress sense has really deteriorated these past four to five years or so ;)

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Oh, I use "deteriorated" with great pride. I'm now able to dress the way I always wanted to! I must've been so visually boring in junior high/high school...

Cute photo! And I also love your outfit--especially your leggings! Very cool.

You can get Noa Noa tights for five to eight pounds if you wait till the pattern you want is out of season *g* Normally, they run about twenty-two a pair. Well worth waiting on; I have another pair that's striped like these, only alternating forest and spring green. They're amongst my favorite hosiery.

I'd love to see a Dali original :(

I know that Paris isn't the only city to have some in its collections; there must be a handful in museums across the US, too!

Isn't Père Lachaise just the most gorgeous cemetary? I really enjoyed it when I was there back in '98. Especially the whole canopied and carved sarcophagus of Abelard and Heloise. It was so lovely. And Chopin, and Jim Morrison, and I could go on and on~

I'm glad you had such a good time though. *hugs* Welcome back. And I completely agree that the best way to experience a new country is through the cuisine. You get the flavor of the land and the people. ♥

It's certainly up there with my personal favorite, the Old Dutch Burying Grounds/Sleepy Hollow Cemetary in Tarrytown, NY (also huge). H&A are under scaffolding at the moment! Their monument is being repaired.

All in all, this is my third trip to France - which means, with the exception of England (which now falls into the same category as the US, namely RESIDENCE), I've spent more time there than in any other country. And I really do hope to keep going back!

I have yet to make it to New York! *grumble* It's on my list though, so I'll just add that as well. Ah! I hope it's nothing huge. Their tomb is just so damn beautiful!

France is definitely one of those countries that gets into your blood. If you don't absolutely love it there, you're just rather "meh" about it. It is a beautiful place.

Oh, Paris. ♥

I could never manage the entire Louvre in one day either - when I see a work of art I love, I'm going to be looking at it for quite some time. :)

Experiencing a city, a country, a culture is down so much to those parts of it that you can truly consume. Precisely! It's the little (yet essential) things like food that really make the experience.

I spent the most time looking at the Ancient Egyptian artifacts. As usual.

Père Lachaise? Don't suppose you dropped by Oscar Wilde's grave while you were there? I'd really love to do the lipstick-kiss think one day, preferably once my French is a little more... sophisticated, let's say. (And, as my lipstick is vegan, I needn't worry about incurring the wrath of Merlin Holland. Ha ha, Merlin Holland. Ha ha.)

Also, SALVADOR DALI. <3 <3 <3

I'm afraid that I can't share your enthusiasm for Chagall, only because I can't understand how he couldn't see that his celing really, really didn't belong in the Palais. It always makes me feel a bit like a Philistine to say it, but there you go.

Two of the best ways to get a handle on a culture are food and music. And although I don't eat chicken, that coconut curry sauce sounds delicious.

I really like your outfit, and the rest of the photograph, as well. You two are super adorable. :)

Alas, we didn't go that far in - and I had no aspirations as far as kissing it, as the thought kind of squicks me (I admit to being germ-phobic this time of year).

Chagall's ceiling was (and still is) quite controversial, I do agree with you there - the original ceiling suited the building far better. However, when I saw the ceiling, I was able to pull it out of context and consider it on its own terms. I'd never seen anything quite like it stylistically; it wasn't till several years later that I first saw some of his lithography, as that's what I'm really in love with. He took what had previously been a copyist's tool and transformed it into something far more sublime.

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